Open SCS Nationals Write-Up

Rob D’Anastasio made an amazing effort and took 7th at SCS. Hensley took 5th.

Anything special about SCS this year?

Tiffany sent us this write-up of her experience with dark horse Peter Dixon, the competition, and offers two theories about SCS:

“Peter Dixon didn’t suddenly transform into a successful athlete because of skinny-strong genetics and a Tesla-efficient metabolism. His morning breakfast was nutrition – his lunch nutrition – and his dinner nutrition with a side of nutrition sauce. Peter told us he aimed for longevity, and not just for himself, but for his climbing, and for climbers who feel the up-down effects of poor nutrition. I wouldn’t be convinced except that while he stayed at our house, I ate delicious, mostly vegan food and drank green juice, and felt amazing at finals. Peter even sent Bambi the next day, his first V12, after a late night photo shoot and nightly video game sessions that lasted until 2am.

On top of this, SCS Nationals was really interesting.

Delaney Miller has been competing for quite some time, and finally toppled everyone but Durif in finals. And an unprecedented number of professional boulderers competed after training on ropes at the last-minute. When I made the same effort to train, I eventually just traversed at CATS, where I found other competitors training getting in last minute resistance. People even trained at The Spot.

So here’s my first theory:

Pure boulderers in Boulder can only be tempted to sport climb in national competitions, where they can do well.

My second theory:

Competition sport routes will become more gymnastic to test the climber on a the full spectrum of moves.

Yes, the significance of sport climbing is the endurance athletes need to sustain to the top, and setters separate climbers based largely on this element. Can we make sport climbing more interesting for both the viewer and the spectators by testing the full range of climbing movements to find the well-rounded sport climber?

ABS was a controversial setter’s dilema in which slabs dictated tops, yet this was a dilemma with a different scoring system: “tops” were counted first, in set of 5 very hard boulder problems.

Gymnastic routes (and large colorful volumes and close-up HD of hard moves) will make sport climbing more interesting, and I think routes right now are not yet sufficiently diverse, but will be. I rarely see compression moves, slopers, mantles, dynos, dynamic, stemming, or problem-solving moves on routes, like in bouldering competitions. And I know those moves are on routes outside.

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