Guillaume Glairon-Mondet: Objectives for 2015/2016!

For a few months you’ve had no news on my blog, because I needed to review my approach to climbing in general, and also to the competitions.


There has been much change in my life since the world championships in Munich.

First, it has been two years that I have trained almost daily at the CNSD, the French bouldering gym. And added to that, 4 years I followed the advice of Nicolas Januel.

With Nico, I have progressed a lot over the years:
Several 8C in Bleau,
3 wins World Cup
9 podiums in World Cup
2 times third overall in the World Cup
1 championship of France 4 four years on the podium

But this year 2014 was very difficult for me to enjoy. Aside from that my results were pretty good (although my goals were not reached), I did not have enough fun training, and also, after four years repeating the same preparation plan, I felt sluggish in my progression.

This is why our training with Nico ended in Munich, after a disappointing 4th place at the world championships.
Added to this, with Mel, we have not been taken up as an elite training center in Fontainebleau. Because we did not, we were training pretty well and quite extensively as coaches. It’s a shame that this decision falls like that, but it allowed us to start over at zero, and change in many ways.

So I will be surrounded by several people for the coming two years, because indeed, although I have great ambitions for all international competitions, now the future World Championships in Paris Bercy in 2016 is my central attention.
Mid-season last year, I started mentally preparing Christophe Bichet, and I am very happy to continue with him this year, because I learn a lot with him. In my end balance sheet 2014 season, it was he who allowed me to express myself much better in competition, and I thank him.

Then Ludo Laurence, who is a coach at my club, the ES Massy, gives me a lot of advice on my climbing sessions. Obviously, one would think that with my experience, I do not need that kind of advice, but he really has a perspective of an experienced competitor, and in a few words, he can keep me on track.

Then for the physical preparation, I decided to trust Thomas Ferry, I did not know very well before. It turns out that it is very versed in planning, and thanks to him, I am always ready at the right time !!

Then, for what is my place of training, I climb regularly to Block’Out 3, and I would like to thank them for their kindness. They allow me to set a few boulders in this beautiful room, and I always have enough to climb over there!

What really changed is the number of climbs movements I do every week. In previous years, I worked on very competition type boulders, but also very hard ones, so I could spend an entire session try a single boulder or even a single movement. Now it’s the opposite, I do sessions at least 3 hours of bouldering, or I store an extraordinary number of new moves for each session! And I already feel the benefit in volume and endurance, but especially in keeping hold, where my level has increased dramatically!

I also continue to climb at the Pole France occasionally to keep in mind the competition boulders, and of course in Fontainebleau when time permits!

Finally, if last year was difficult, considering my training as a job, this year, in a totally different atmosphere, I can again say that I LOVE CLIMBING !!

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