Kif Kif Demain 9a

When Pedro Bergua first suggested I go to the La Foz de la Canal sector in Bielsa, I immediately liked the idea. I already climbed some routes there a few years ago and I remember liking the wall and lines. I am not sure why I did not think about returning before. Probably because I thought it would be impossible for me to climb there in June. Not because of hot temperatures. On the contrary. The crag is situated in the Spanish Pyrenees and morning temperatures can get as low as 10 -15 degrees Celsius. Temperatures in which I do not climb comfortably.

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My first surprise when I did go back was the inaccessibility of the wall. The many tufas that occupy the greater part of the semi-overhanging and whitish wall of La foz de la canal were dripping wet. And worst of all, it seemed as if it would take weeks for them to dry out. But after my bittersweet experiences in Santa Linya I needed to climb something so I scrutinized the wall for some dry lines. Surprisingly, these were exactly the two or three routes I wanted to try. So with which of them start? I chose the line that appealed most to me: Kif Kif Demain. I prefer endurance routes over power ones and the long and very featured line of Kif Kif Demain seemed to be of the first style. It goes without saying that, with my bad route reading skills – obviously on sighting is not my strong point – and the humid conditions, my first performances on the route were very poor. But I could see it was my style: more finger strength than overall power and no super reachy moves. And that motivated me.

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Over the next few weeks and despite the continuing humid conditions, I worked out the hardest sections in isolation. The difficulty of Kif Kif Demain does not so much lie in bouldery moves (my weakness) but in the necessary endurance to link the different hard sections (luckily that is something I am usually not bad at). As time went by I solved the separate cruxes and managed more and more link ups. The thing that worried me most was the top: a vertical face where I needed to arrive rather fresh so as to be able to do the last 15 to 20 intense moves. But I kept arriving there really pumped from the preceding 25 meters. Fighting the lactic acid, I went move by move. Every attempt I got one more hold, until finally I could clip the chain. What an immense joy and satisfaction to again be able to get something done that costs so much effort and dedication.

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Thanks to Mad Rock I am going to have, for the very first time, a (post red point) video of the route. The surroundings, the wall and, of course, photographer Carlos Pérez´ expertise have resulted in some very beautiful images indeed.

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